Kyaninga Lodge, Uganda
The views from here are absolutely stunning. The one side, across Kyaninga Crater Lake, you can see the snow capped Rwenzori Mountains which rise above 18000ft (Mountains of the moon as they are known locally) often extending way up into the clouds, it is perhaps forgivable that the first British explorer to hack his way through the Elephant Grass and jungle that would have been this area once, did not even notice these mountains existed.
To the East you overlook the incredible garden escarpment that Steve and his staff have created well in advance of opening to ensure their interest. Oh and we ought to mention the Tennis Court, Badminton and Croquet Lawns to ensure no boredom on the spare days in between safaris, the Mweya Lodge boat rides up hippo infested water and jungle walks in search of chimpanzees in Kibale National Park, (less than a hour away.)
To help understand the determination and guts of this young man it is worth reporting that he took a year to study the Land Laws and battle through the very complex and risky procedure that it took to purchase his first 30 hectares. It is made more complicated that back in the wake of the Amin era a partially awkward chap saw fit to burn down their land registry office and records. Can you imagine sorting out the mostly false claims for land, for many cases by people who happened to have a similar name to the previous, legal, owner who wasn’t aware the real records had been destroyed!
However the land was purchased and the construction began. The idea was to build using eucalyptus trees which are an incredibly fast growing tree which produce really hard wood. The only problem is, once built, the trees shrink by about a 12th of its original width. As a result the first cabin was built with a ceiling height of 9ft and it dropped to 8ft 3 ins!
However, by studying books from America about the complex procedure to build a good quality log cabin, Steve developed his very ambitious programme. He could not, of course, afford to pay skilled men from his homeland so he set about training local labour who had more or less no idea about any part of the work being undertaken.
It is fair to say, without offence, that the local labourers do not have the work ethic of even the very worst of Britain’s growing workshy population. In spite of the fact that there is no welfare system in Uganda it is remarkably difficult to find many people who have the intelligence and work ethic that is required to progress an undertaking such as this.
Of all the people I met who had got to know Steve over the last five years everyone was in awe of his ambition, vision and drive to see his dream fulfilled.
One of the asides that is also worth reporting is that of an orphan from a nearby village who was born with AIDs was likely to live a desperately destitute and short life. Steve has taken him under his wing, paid for his anti HIV drugs and education and got his life on track. Some neighbours were trying to claim his ex-family’s land but their attempts have now be thwarted and this 15 year old young man’s life has been improved beyond the wildest expectations.
Two other brothers from a nearby family could not afford to go to school. Steve has sponsored the education of these youngsters. The youngest is now doing well in the local primary school which we visited on the last day of our stay. There are over 800 pupils and 20 teachers. The largest class has 70 children! The chaotic reception that was provided for out little visit was unbelievable. Laughing, screaming, shouting and an utter scramble to be in the photo with our little Mzungu 11-year old.
Ages within any one class vary enormously. If an adult cannot read or write he may well be put in with a class of 6 year olds.
The eldest, David, now goes to a local private secondary school where again there are over 800 students. The fees, including board and lodgings are £100 per term. All are squeezed into an incredibly small series of huts in bunk beds but they are dressed very smartly, the boys, a little grudgingly, wear beige kilts (to show respect for the founder of the school who was Scottish).
The buildings are showing severe signs of their age and, as you can imagine at those fees, proper refurbishment is impossible. Inevitably you cannot help thinking about getting them some help. Particularly at the primary school where the need seemed greater, we asked if they know anything about Red Nose Day which was dedicated this year largely to Uganda, they had no knowledge of Comic Relief or its associate activities.
They did explain though, that so much of the charity money struggles to find its way to the really needy. In due course, as this project progresses we really must do something to help these people.
If you would like a holiday to really remember then please get in touch. Take a look at www.kyaningalodge.com or contact Steve kyaningalodge@gmail.com
A Little History
This is a story about a fairly remarkable young man called Steve Williams who was brought up at Llanbaddon Farm, Michaelchurch, and second son to Leonard and Linda. His heart was never really in farming and was born with a low boredom threshold.
From the age of about three he had a strange fascination with Gorillas – on a day out to a zoo for instance, there was no peace until they had brought him the toy gorilla – and we mean – no peace at all.
At the age of nine he worked tirelessly to block off a nearby stream and create a three tier pool with stone paths down to it. He explained to Mum and Dad that it is where his paying visitors would walk down to admire his handy work. Little did they know where these two features of his personality would take him!
His A-levels and college career lead him to design far more complex projects than his classmates but some very late nights to finish them off at the last minute. The roll top desk was the best example of this but the result was very impressive – leading some teachers to query whether he’d actually made it? But he had, of course, and it took one of the main stands at the Hereford Art Exhibition.
After an uneasy career making furniture in workshops at home he decided, as so many others these days, to take some time off travelling. He went to Africa and ended up in Uganda, where he met some very interesting people. He got caught up in the chaotic but very friendly life that is a country with a great climate, a very British, Colonial past and present. He discovered some people who are serving The Tourist Trade for mostly Mzungus (Europeans/White skinned westerners) and leading a very good life doing so. As good hotels are so difficult to find, a number of people have built lodges with associated cabins to provide good food and quality surroundings but with the African feel. He found a beautiful site overlooking a ‘crater lake’ where, about ten thousand years ago the Earth’s over-heating core blew a hole, of about ten hectares, up out of the ground and it’s now full of water. There are many of these in the region and they make for a fascinating landscape.
His chosen spot is about 5,300 feet above sea level (1300ft above our highest mountain, Ben Nevis). The nearest town, Fort Portal, is itself about 4,600ft above sea level and it is this height combined with moving warm air that gives rise to plenty of rain and a wonderful lush green landscape. To quote Sir Winston Churchill ‘If you push a walking stick into the ground of Uganda – it will grow’.
Temperatures are probably only 3 or 4 degrees warmer than an English warm summer. Bird, insect and butterfly life is phenomenal.
The road from Fort Portal up to Kyaninga Lodge (as it is known) is, to say the least, interesting. It is almost lined with mud huts and cultivated vegetation. A chaotic assortment of colourful women with absolutely all sorts balanced on their heads, combined with men riding and pushing an assortment of bicycles and “Boda-bodas” (mopeds). You just cannot believe the loads precariously balanced – anything from firewood way above the riders head to mattresses – beds, matoke (potatoes which look like fat bananas) rolled up sheets of corrugated galvanise, oh, and sometimes a large family (5 was the record!)
Steve’s vision of being able to serve the paying customer has now leapt from a three tier pool to eight substantial log cabins and a lodge which will be the envy of the established Mzungu accommodation not just in Uganda but (I was told by one very impressed lady from Kampala who works for the U.S Embassy) for the whole of Africa.